Sao Luis
I arrived at the bus terminal in Sao Luis after one of the worst bus rides I have ever been on. I think that we hit just about every pot-hole there was and the ones we missed, I think the driver went back for them. The road was terrible. I think I only got about an hours sleep in total. So I was not to flash when I arrived and my brain was not working to well, so when I tried to communicate with Myla’s family I was getting all my Portuguese wrong and struggling to understand what was being said to me. That said, I was finally collected by Myla’s and their live in maid.
At the family home, I met the rest of Myla’s family, her eldest sister and husband, Jose and Marcelo, who had lived in the US for a few years, so their English was very good, which made life a little easier for me. I also met Myla’s youngest sister, Sue, and her fiancée and the youngest brother, Marcus. I had a whole guest house to myself, which was great, as I could spread out my things and not worry too much about it, as only I had to see and live with the mess… narh, it wasn’t too bad. The dad, Zilmar, was still at the family farm, so I did not meet him for a day or so.
During the first few days of my visit to Sao Luis, I went out with Sue and her fiancée, for a city tour, at night. It was great to get a feel for Sao Luis and then to eat some very nice pizza. The family also aided me in arranging an overnight trip to Barrarinhas, a local tourist town where they have vast areas of white sand dunes that are dotted with small fresh water lakes. The region is quite vast and quite dangerous in the dry season, due to its lack of water. It just so happened that I was there in the dry season. I also went to a local church in Sao Luis of a friend. I had met Marcus in Brasilia on my first visit and I thought that I would catch up with him at his church. His dad is the pastor of the church and he is his junior. We chatted and arranged to go on a city tour of Sao Luis the following day.
The tour was great, as we walked around the old centre, in its many small streets and lanes, you could feel the history of the place, as Sao Luis is about 400yrs old. We talked about the history and even the modern day issues of drugs and alcohol, as we saw many people who were passed out or throwing up.
It was quite sad. Here in Brazil, they have many young pretty ladies trying to sell you things in the streets, such as telephone contracts, in-store promotions, etc… I don’t mind this, but it gets a little monotonous when they always seem to run through the crowd to try and give me their spiel. When I say thank you and that I don’t speak much Portuguese, they just start to smile and stare…even when I have moved on for some time.
The following morning I was collected at 4:30am, by the tour group, to go to Barrarinhas. A cold shower at 4am really does wake you up. Oh, they don’t have hot water in their showers here, as you don’t need it. It is always hot and you use the shower to cool down. Along the way we collected a French couple, who spoke no English, but the wife did speak Spanish, so that is how we communicated. After the 4hr drive we arrived in the tourist town and were dropped off at the hotel. I was told that I had 30mins to settle in before they would be back to collect me for the tour to the dunes. I think about 5 mins later there was a knock at the door. So we were off. The group now consisted of the French couple, 3 Ladies from Sao Paulo and myself. I was changing from Spanish to Portuguese when trying to communicate. I also acted as a very bad translator, when the French lady and the 3 Brazilians were stuck on words, during their conversation. I was really bad at it, as sometimes I did not know the word, so I said it in English or tried to use something that was similar. Anyway, the walk to the one and only lake we could find was hot and tiring, but very enjoyable, as I got to practice some more Portuguese. It was so dry! The sun was so hot! I can see why you would be in a lot of trouble is you did not have water with you.
On arrival at the lake, an hour after we started walking, we all jumped into the water and swam. About an hour later, I was just starting to relax and feel the heat leave my body, when the guide said… “Let’s go. We will return to town for lunch”. I was a little disappointed, but left the water and started to walk. On the return journey I discussed with the 3 ladies that it would have been better to take lunch with us and stay out at the lake for more time, as this was a major reason why we had travelled here in the first place. They agreed.
I had lunch with the French couple, as we had dropped off the 3 ladies at their hotel, which had a great restaurant, which we discovered later in the Lonely Planet Guide Book. Not to worry, as I enjoyed my meal of fresh fish. When we were dropped off the driver was talking about roads and my hotel. I asked him to speak slower to me to help my understanding. He just looked at me, gave me a ‘whatever’ look and kept on talking fast, pointing away from the restaurant. Not really understanding it all, I just nodded and said “Yes. My hotel is that way”. After lunch the waiter started doing the same thing as the driver with me. I looked at the French lady and said, “I think he is your guide for the hotel” and she like me believed that we were to be driven back, as it had said in our programme. I started walking, trying to follow his instructions. Normally I am very good with instructions and directions and have a general good sense of direction; I just do not know what happened on this day. I walked the streets for about an hour, trying to find my hotel. As the name of my hotel was ‘Hotel River’, when asking for directions, I was always given directions to the river. I think wearing my bathers and having a towel around my neck didn’t help… not to mention my poor Portuguese speaking ability (I understand more than I can speak). I eventually went back to the restaurant to start over again… This time trying to remember buildings, trees, etc… and not listening to the directions I was given. I found the hotel in about 15mins. When I arrived I saw the driver, from the morning, and complained about the lack of service, service I had paid for and expected. He was very apologetic.
The following day we all went on a speed boat riverboat cruise. We stopped off at various small villages for a stretch of the legs, photo opportunities and of course the usual purchases of either overpriced snacks or drinks. During the trip I met a girl from Canada who was travelling like me, taking her time, knowing that she had a flight out of Brazil in a month, from Forteleza, the next major city along the coast. She was happy to have a conversation with someone else who was a native English speaker, without a heavy accent… I understood what she meant. She asked when I was leaving and when I said that afternoon, she asked that I stay on an extra night so we could talk a little more and go to the local Jazz club together. I declined the offer and after the boat cruise returned to the hotel, packed my things and jumped onto the mini-van that drove me back to Sao Luis.
The following morning I arranged to go to the farm with Zilmar. First I had the day to relax, so I went to the beach. I walked for ages, just looking at the ocean, finally finding a spot to swim and enjoy the waters, making sure I kept an eye on my things. It was a great time of thinking about things and contemplating others. I thought of many things that day, where I had been in my life and where I was going. My friends, both in Australia and abroad, and especially my family were all thought of.
The following morning, Zilmar and I went to the farm. It was about a 2hr drive, but it was great to be out and about again see other parts of Brazil. The farm is great. I spent my days fishing, reading my bible, walking, looking at buffalo and sleeping in a hammock. It was very relaxing and very enjoyable. Even with the language barrier, Zilmar and I had many laughs, especially when I told him stories of my adventures in Brazil. I met the family that manages the farm when Zilmar is not there. They are a wonderful family and I got on well with them.
I struggled to understand the mother, but the daughters and the husband were not as bad. During discussions I heard about the difficulties they girls have because of a lack of teachers. Sometimes they don’t have a subject ofor a whole semester or even a whole year because they have no teacher. This semester it was a lack of Maths and a lack of English teachers.
I think that rural life in Brazil is a little harder than rural life in Australia. On the final day Zilmar, his brother and I all went motorbike riding. It was such great fun. I really enjoyed going at top gear, with the throttle on full, not knowing how fast I was going. I felt like I was just flying. It was so much fun.
That afternoon we returned to Sao Luis, as we needed to go to Marcus’ girlfriend’s party, which was being held that night. On arrival at home about 7pm, I thought, I must go and get ready as we have a party to go to. It wasn’t until later that I found out the party was to start at 11pm! Security was high, but when your Dad is the head policeman of Sao Luis, I guess that you can pull a few cops to guard your daughter’s birthday. After we had chatted for a little and had a few cool drinks, we danced and socialised. Dinner was served at 1:30am. Now that is a late dinner. We did some more dancing and then left to go home at 3am. What a different lifestyle. I guess the only party I have ever been to that starts at 11pm, is a NYE party. I was told that that was very common in Brazil. The following morning I arranged my return flight to Brasilia, my stopping point for my return journey to Campinas. I really enjoyed my time in Sao Luis and I have promised that I will return, one day, if they will have me. Zilmar said that he wants to visit me in Australia in the next 2 years. We had made a very good connection, even with the major language barrier we had.
Obrigado Zilmar para tudo. Voce tem uma familia linda e que legal da fazenda.